The Tramping Life
Conversations with people who share a deep love for exploring Aotearoa New Zealand on foot. From the well-trodden Great Walks to the rugged solitude of remote backcountry routes, our guests share their favourite hikes, huts, and hard-earned lessons from the track.
Whether you’re an experienced tramper or just curious about what makes hiking in New Zealand so special. The Tramping Life offers inspiration, practical insights, and a deeper connection to the landscapes that shape us.
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The Tramping Life
Syme Hut
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In this episode of we head to the slopes of Mount Taranaki to visit one of the most spectacular and highest public huts in the North Island, Syme Hut. Sitting at around 1,940 m on an old volcanic cone high on the mountain’s southern flank, the hut offers remarkable views across much of the North Island on a clear day.
The route begins at Dawson Falls Visitor Centre and climbs steadily through forest and subalpine vegetation before emerging onto steep volcanic slopes of loose scoria and rock. The final section is an exposed climb towards Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut itself, gaining roughly 1,000 metres of elevation over about 9 kilometres.
I visited Syme Hut while attempting a section of the old around-the-mountain circuit in 2021. What followed was a long and windy climb, some difficult decisions about whether to continue, and eventually one of the most memorable hut stays I’ve ever had, with spectacular sunset and sunrise views from high on the mountain.
In this episode I share an overview of the route, the history of the hut, my experience climbing to it, and some practical advice for anyone thinking of making the trip.
Today we're heading to Taranaki and the highest public hut on the North island, situated on old volcanic cone. Let's talk about SI hut.
PeterSo
JontyKira and welcome to the Tramping Life, a podcast about hiking in RO New Zealand, or as we call it here, tramping. I'm ch and in this episode I'll talk about a specific track or hut. I'll give an overview and share my experience along with the highlights and some practical advice.
Speakerone of New Zealand's most iconic and deadly mountains. The 2,518 meter high mount Taranaki is hundred 25,000 year old volcano, which dominates the Taranaki region. The route TOS hut begins at the Dawson's falls visitor center on the south side of Taranaki Mama. the lower section is well formed, but the gradient increases as the track ascends through sub alpine vegetation towards hooker shelter, a key west point before the terrain steepens further above the bush line. The environment changes abruptly. The route continues across open alpine slopes of loose scoria and volcanic rock as it climbs towards Panta Fathoms Peak, A secondary volcanic cone attached to Mount Taranaki Southern flank. The ascent from Dawson's falls to the hut gains approximately a thousand meters in elevation over around nine kilometers, making an 18 kilometer return walk. Typical walking time is around five to six hours to the hut, depending on fitness and conditions. Simon Hut sits at approximately 1,940 meters above sea level. It has 10 bunks, no heating operates on the first come first serve basis. The Huts history is central to the character of this route. The Originals Hut was built in 1930 by members of the Mount Eggmont Alpine Club led by the prominent climber, rod s, after whom the hut is named. Materials were prefabricated and carried up the mountain by volunteers and extraordinary logistical effort. At the time, the opening attracted hundreds of people reflecting both community pride and the growing mountaineering culture around Mount Taranaki Over the decades, the original hut endured extreme alpine conditions including heavy snow loading that periodically buried the structure. Eventually, the site brewed unsustainable. In 1988, a replacement hut was constructed nearby at a slightly higher and more secure location, although it still gets covered in snow during wintertime portions of the 1930 hut have been preserved and are on display at the Dawsons Falls Visit Center. I stayed at Simon Hut as part of walking the around the Mount Taranaki circuit in January, 2021. Unfortunately, due to severe erosion in places, the falls circuit is no longer possible, so the North island misses out on a classic multi-day trap. About five and a half hours after leaving Una Gorge Hut, I made it to the steps that lead in one direction to sign Hut and the other direction to Dawson's Falls. It was decision time. My plan was to stay at Simon Hut. I was pretty tired and concerned about the wind and exposure heading up towards the hut. The alternative would've been a longer walk back to my car than an hour driving back to New Plymouth. the downside of leaving the hut at 11:30 AM after waiting for morning heavy rain to clear. It gave less options, though Sunset wasn't until nearly 9:00 PM The skies are blue and it was surprisingly warm. Still while making up my mind, a young woman came down the steps. She'd also planned to stay at Si Hut, but had bravely and unusual in my experience with people climbing. Mount Taranaki decided, turn around, halfway up the scree slope and return to her car, the wind, which at 60 kilometers per hour was near Gale Force, had made her decision. That helped me make up my mind to abandon Sign Hut, but I thought I'd just walk up the screen slope for a bit for photos and see how much stronger the wind was there and on the steps. Once I got onto the slope, it was pretty full on, but more constant than Gusty and hiking poles make a huge difference on screed slopes, and the young women didn't have any. I also saw a couple of guys ahead of me making their way up towards the hut without appearing to be in too much trouble. It was warm enough, the weather was fine other than the wind, and there was no drop offs if I got blown over and I still had time to attempt the hut and turn back if it got too much, so I decided to push on. It was pretty exhausting climbing the slope, but I made better progress than I feared, and it seemed increasingly doable to reach the hut. The sun was still shining with only just as it was setting on the other side of the mountain. The scree gave way to more solid rock, which helped that the wind got stronger. It was strongest just over the lip of the climb with a snow filled crater to my side, and here crouching and making full use of my poles Was required to stay upright. Thankfully, Simon Hut was just around the corner. I was very grateful to finally escape the wind and have my first rest of more than a couple of minutes in nearly seven hours of hard tramping at the hut with the guys I seeing heading up the hill, enjoying a beer. There were locals who just walked up to the hut for some Sunday evening exercise and headed back down to Dawson's Falls after we talked for about 10 minutes. which left the hut to myself quite the contrast of the 14 people who'd stayed in the 10 bunk hut the previous night, according to the group I'd passed earlier on, it's a relatively small 10 bunk hu Anyway, so to have 14 people in there would've been quite a squeeze. The hut is firmly held down with cables that hummed and buzzed in the wind sounding like a fly. The toilet was a sturdy, concrete cylinder with expansive views, with door open. Safe enough as the only person on the mountain that evening. In the opposite direction to the sunset, I could see Matt EO 250 kilometers away with such a clear evening looking out across the north island For a couple of minutes, Mount Taranaki was lit up red by the setting sun. I've seen a lot of sunsets, but this was up there with the best, and I ran around the empty hut taking photos from every angle. The mountainside and the hut had quite a different atmosphere lit by moonlight. I didn't sleep too well as the gale force. Wind continued through the night when it had been forecast to drop, and I was a little anxious about getting back down safely the next day. I was working by an impressive sunrise, though Mount Rupe looked quite different in the morning. Rising above a layer of cloud in the morning, I could also see its neighbors Mount Tomaro and Mount Narrow hurry. After breakfast, I headed back down the hill, which wasn't that much faster than going up as I was taking it carefully, given that the strong winds were behind me rather than the front of me making balancing on the steep slope. Tricky. I didn't really get to enjoy the epic views as I was concentrating hard on getting down safely. It was a great relief to reach the steps from here. It was endlessly downhill for another hour or so with little of note until I reached Dawson's Falls Visitor Center. In terms of highlights, Simon Hutt is possibly the most spectacular place I have ever stayed, helped by seeing incredible sunset and sunrise. The tramp to it takes you from thick bush to the top of a volcanic cone an all terrain in between. On a clear day, you can see a substantial part of the north island below you is quite a feeling the views you get are as good as from the summit of Mount Taranaki, but with far fewer people and presumably marginally less effort as it isn't quite as high. The historical significance also adds depth to the experience. The hardest, far more basic than many huts these days, but it has character and a sense of history. To finish with some practical advice, this is a physically demanding alpine tramp with significant elevation gain. A high level of fitness is required. The upper sections are exposed to wind, snow, and ice, even outside of winter in colder months. Mountaineering equipment and appropriate experience is essential. Multiple people have died in this area and many others injured. So be sensible about the conditions, your equipment, and your experience. There are limited water sources above the bush line, Aside from the huts, rainwater tank. So carrying enough water with you is important. the hut is first come, first served, and un bookable. Arriving early increases the likelihood of securing a bunk, as does visiting during the week. Hiking poles are highly recommended. They make a big difference in windy conditions and with the descent on loose terrain. Gators may also be useful on the screen sections. Finally, weather conditions on Mount Taranaki can change rapidly the upper slopes, often no shelter. Once above the bush line, always check latest conditions at the Vista Center before departing and be prepared to turn back if necessary.
PeterSo
SpeakerThank you so much for listening to the Tramping life. If you've enjoyed today's episode, please follow the podcast in whatever app you use. Tell a friend about it and consider leaving a rating or a review. It really helps more people discover the show. you have any questions or feedback, I'd love to hear from you. Drop me an email at the tramping life, one word@gmail.com.