In this episode of The Tramping Life, we return to Nelson Lakes National Park for one of New Zealand’s classic backcountry circuits — the 80km Travers–Sabine Circuit — with a demanding side trip to Rotomairewhenua / Blue Lake, regarded as one of the clearest natural freshwater lakes in the world.

Starting from St Arnaud on the shores of Lake Rotoiti, the Travers–Sabine Circuit typically takes 4–7 days and traverses a broad cross-section of Nelson Lakes terrain: beech forest, braided river valleys, open tussock basins and high alpine passes. The high point is Poukirikiri / Travers Saddle at 1,787m — a 450m climb followed by a steep 1,000m descent into the Sabine Valley.

Along the way I pass Lakehead and John Tait Huts, climb toward Upper Travers, descend to West Sabine, and push on to Blue Lake Hut near Rotomairewhenua. Please note: Blue Lake is a wāhi tapu (sacred site). Visitors must not enter or contaminate the water.

This was my thirteenth multi-day tramp — and one of the more eventful. Torrential rain turned tracks into streams. I faced my first flooded river crossing and waited two hours for water levels to drop before committing. A broken hiking pole, hail, thunder, and a long, punishing 23km day tested judgment and pacing. I arrived at Blue Lake Hut in darkness and exhaustion — then woke to perfectly clear water, blue ducks, and mountains reflected in stillness.

The Travers–Sabine Circuit rewards preparation, patience and sound decision-making. It is not technical mountaineering, but it is serious tramping — with real exposure to weather, terrain and fatigue.