In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head to Northland for a rugged coastal overnighter along the Cape Brett Peninsula in the Bay of Islands — finishing at one of DOC’s most unusual and historic huts.

The 16km one-way Cape Brett Track follows an old Māori trail through regenerating bush and along exposed ridgelines, with constant climbs and descents along the spine of the peninsula. On paper it’s moderate. In reality, it’s physically demanding — particularly in summer heat, with limited shade and often scarce water.

At the far end of the peninsula sits Cape Brett Hut, a converted 1909 lighthouse keeper’s house — the last remaining dwelling of what was once a small, isolated community. Nearby stands the Cape Brett Lighthouse (first lit in 1910), one of the last complete original lighthouse complexes remaining on site in New Zealand. Staying here feels less like a typical backcountry hut and more like stepping into a remote slice of maritime history.

I walked this in mid-summer, carrying nine litres of water in drought conditions — pushing my pack to 20kg over relentless, undulating terrain. Along the way were panoramic views from 345m above sea level, pest control lines and electric fencing, a detour to Deep Water Cove, and the dramatic final stretch along wave-battered cliffs. I even had a slightly unsettling night alone in the hut — accompanied by an inquisitive seagull that found its way inside.

On the return, I extended the trip via the Te Toro Track to Whangamumu Harbour, visiting the haunting remains of the Whangamumu whaling station — the only land-based whaling station in the world to use nets to capture whales. Rusted boilers and oil vats remain scattered across a now peaceful harbour accessible only by foot or boat.

Sixteen kilometres may not sound far, but the Cape Brett Track has a reputation for testing walkers more than expected. It’s a short tramp with a big feel — historic, exposed, and deeply atmospheric.