The Tramping Life

Thousand Acre Plateau

• Jonty • Episode 20

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In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head into the north-west of Kahurangi National Park to explore the Thousand Acre Plateau — a vast upland landscape of limestone formations, open tussock and sweeping horizons.

Rising to around 1000 metres above sea level, this elevated former seabed feels unlike almost anywhere else in New Zealand. Accessed via the Matiri Valley Road near Murchison, the tramp begins gently along a 4WD access track to Lake Matiri Hut, before a sustained 750-metre climb delivers you onto the plateau rim.

From there, the route traverses open, often boggy terrain to the tiny two-bunk Poor Pete’s Hut and on to Larrikin Creek Hut beneath the limestone bluffs of The Haystack. Along the way are distinctive landmarks such as The Needle and Mount Misery, offering optional scrambling trips and expansive views across this stark, exposed landscape.

I share my three-day, 44km journey across the plateau in mid-summer — the long hot crossings, the steep climbs, dry tarns, sandflies, an refreshing creek dip, and a close brush with heat exhaustion. We also encountered an inspiring retired couple who had been tramping five days a week for over a year — proof that adventure doesn’t come with an expiry date.

This is a route rather than a manicured track. It demands fitness, sound navigation, and respect for rapidly changing conditions. In summer, there is little shade and heat can be a serious factor. In wet weather, the mud and stream crossings can be challenging.

Jonty

Today we're heading into Kanga National Park, hiking up to a unique upland landscape. Let's talk about the thousand acre plateau.

Peter

So

Jonty

Kira and welcome to the Tramping Life, a podcast about hiking in RO New Zealand, or as we call it here, tramping. I'm ch and in this episode I'll talk about a specific track or hut. I'll give an overview and share my experience along with the highlights and some practical advice.

Speaker

A thousand acre plateau is a fast, open expanse of tussock and limestone that originally was the bed of a shallow sea. since raised to around a thousand meters above sea level. The plateau is actually about 2000 acres in size and was named by mech and settlers, some of whom graze their sheep here in the early 20th century. Is located in the northwest of Kanga Rangi National Park, and most easily accessed from Matei Valley Road. About half an hour's drive from Murchison Tramp starts along a four wheel drive track, developed for a hydro scheme for heading through Matura Beach Forest to the eight bunk lake Matti hut. this overlooks lake material, which is an important wildlife refuge, flocks of paradise. Ducks rest there during the summer when they molt and they cannot fly. Little shag, mallard, scallop and grave ducks are also common visitors. From here is a steep climb of around 750 meters to merge onto the plateau rim. A marked root crosses the tussock and boggy plateau to the two bunk po Pete's hut before continuing north to the four bunk Larrikin Creek hut, which sits. beneath limestone Bluffs near the haystack. Both huts have a good number of camping spots nearby. Larkin Creek Hut is a good base for day trips to the nearby Mudstone peaks of the needle and the haster, which involves some scrambling to reach the summits to reach a hundred acre plateau itself. Climb a bushy gully to the north of a hut to a tussock basin with tars at the western rim is the small peak of Mount misery return the way you came, or there are more challenging options to create a loop route for experienced trampers. I hiked a thousand acre plateau in January a few years ago, over three days walking around 44 kilometers. A hydroelectric power scheme was being built in the valley and a four-wheel drive access road made for dull, fast walking. It didn't take much more than an hour to reach the attractively situated lake material. Hut. the outside bench though could have done with being placed six feet closer to the huts to really enjoy the lake views. the sand flies were pretty thick here, and black swans below could be heard honking away. A lake is nearby, but there wasn't an obvious way to reach the shore. The next morning started with a pleasant walk to reach a junction heading to the right for the pecka track by the material valley track, and left up to a thousand acre plateau and up. It certainly was with a 750 meter climb, very steep at the start and end, and more gradual in the middle sections. There were plenty of tree roots, a wacker moss, fantails, and a handful of views along the way. A few hours later, it was quite a site coming out onto the plateau, nearly a thousand meters above sea level with an epic expanse of tussock and some interesting formations in the distance. the pointiest of these. The needle was the goal to reach by what would be a rather long day. It was up and over a tussock covered hill to reach Paul Pete's hut for lunch. This is a tidy two bunk hut there with three mattresses, and it has a nice camping area. Large enough for a couple of tents, which we would stay at on our return. From here. It was a long, hot afternoon. Crossing the plateau under the full force of the summer sun with little shade views were quite spectacular. Though it had been unusually dry for several weeks, so many of the towns have completely dried out. But a few photogenic ones remain After a few hours of undulating terrain in the heat, there was a relief to reach a section of bush that was pretty muddy. Even in this dry period, we reached the four bunk Rakin Creek hub by the end of the afternoon. They're an enthusiastic couple, told us of a campsite by the towns below the needle, so we headed up another hillside. We were rewarded though with magnificent views and a number of tons. We count on a gravelly area a little way away on a warm and near Windless summers evening. The morning brought new views of the landscape and a totally blue sky day. Stunning, but very hot, and there was almost no shade around. After breakfast, we headed up towards the needle. This is a seep climb, however you do it. We went up a bushy section to the left of the gully while people who came after us went straight up the dry creek bed, which even steeper and riskier in my view, if quicker and easier in some ways. My theory is to avoid situations with potentially large falls, particularly where the rock is prone to breaking, which this would in your hand. The views were huge and got even better. The higher we climbed, and there were many colorful flowers around, along with some very spiky plants, which made me regret not wearing my gators for this section. Reaching a saddle below the needle, we could see mount misery at the edge of the plateau. It would've been a great place to visit, had we more time, but we needed to retrace our steps that afternoon. Across the plateau, the needle gets progressively steeper towards the summit. So we got as close about 20 meters from it, as I felt comfortable, enjoyed the views, and then returned much faster down the hill, back to the campsite for lunch. All blue skies, an impressive scenery on the return down the hill to Larkin Creek hut, not far beyond the hut is one of the larger and more sheltered creeks, which had just enough water in it to make an excellent dip. Cool down about 20 meters beyond where the track crosses it. Was very much needed before a long, very hot afternoon. Returning across the plateau to camp Paul Pete's hut, my wife was close to heat, stroke and experience also shared by former Minister of Conservation Eugenic Sage, whilst walking this track. There. We had dinner with Hans and Diane, a Kiwi couple, who gave us the camping advice at Larrikin Creek Hut. They had plenty of adventures and were impressively fit for that age. After hiking, on average five days a week for the past 15 months, all around New Zealand, they were quite inspirational and things you could do in your early retirement. The next morning we headed down to Lake Matei Hut, Slow work at the start due to the steepness, faster in the middle, and quite painful on the knees, on the final long, steep section, we thought the final stretch along the four-wheel drive track would be easy, but it was more uphill than remembered and offered very little shade from the scorching sun. There's a relief to return to the car and have a dip in the material river close to the carpark in conditions. I suspect this would be a bad idea given strong currents in low flow. It was warm and very refreshing. Highlights of this tramp include the landscape of the thousand acre plateau, which is unique in New Zealand. There is a broad, open tussic landscape with expansive views and dramatic limestone. Features markedly different from forested valleys and typical alpine scenery Landmarks, such as the haystack and the needle are distinctive and make for good day trips. Granted, I walked this during COVID times, but we still only saw nine people in three parties over a beautiful weekend at the end of January. So this is relatively quiet compared to many tracks. There are many attractive towns, and it would've been more so if it hadn't been so dry. And much of the route passes through mature beach forest, and there was a reasonable amount of wildlife around to finish with some practical advice. Take a tent. The huts are good, but small and cannot be booked. There are decent camping spots next to each. and camping by the town above Ra Hu was memorable. Access is via the material Valley road, which is largely gravel, but accessible without a four wheel drive. Lake material hut is easy to reach the plateau, less so with decent climb and steep terrain requiring suitable fitness heat. Stroke is a risk to be aware of if walking in summer due to the lack of shade on the plateau, you are largely exposed to whatever the weather is doing. So do pay attention to the forecast before starting. Parts of the walk can be extremely boggy and mud here is notorious in wet weather Streams can be challenging to cross come prepared. Gators are recommended. Parts of this tramp are more of a route than a track, so some navigational skills are needed. And finally, allow more time than you think. This is not a fast nor easy tramp, but it does make for a wonderful few days

Peter

so

Speaker

Thank you so much for listening to the Tramping life. If you've enjoyed today's episode, please follow the podcast in whatever app you use. Tell a friend about it and consider leaving a rating or a review. It really helps more people discover the show. you have any questions or feedback, I'd love to hear from you. Drop me an email at the tramping life, one word@gmail.com.